Antarctica is one of those bucket list destinations that most people, including myself, had only ever dreamt of visiting. I mean, it’s only a place where scientists and private yachts go, right? When I started seeing more and more posts from average people visiting Antarctica, I thought maybe this was something to really look into. I found a group online called Antarctica Travel Group and subscribed to their email list. They also have a FB group. They send last minute sales as well as next season sailings. After I started to gather this information that it was possible for the average person to go to Antarctica, I started to get excited and look into my options. It became very clear to me early on that this was an overwhelming choice. How do I choose which package I want? What is a good sale and when to jump on the offer? Which ship is right for me? Which destination can I afford? It became apparent that there are several packages to choose from. I had to break down the options into categories: destinations, duration, ships, sail dates/costs and expeditions. I will discuss the different options within these categories.
Photography boat expedition-photo courtesy Jermaine Amado
Destinations
There are 3 primary destinations tourists can visit in Antarctica: South Georgia Island, South Shetland Islands and the Weddell Sea. South Georgia Island is a wildlife paradise. Here massive amounts of animals gather every summer to hatch their young and raise them before heading back north for winter. This is the ideal location if you want to see Emperor Penguins and Elephant Seals as well as rich history from the whaling era. While there are several landing sites in the area, due to Avian flu outbreaks sometimes it is not possible to make landings. We were told by expedition leaders that the area also has a particular smell from the seals. lol Sailing to the SG Islands takes additional days as it is a little out of the way from Antarctica. The South Shetland Islands are a group of Antarctic islands just north of the Antarctic peninsula. This area is known for its stunning, jaw-dropping landscapes, wildlife such as whales, penguins and seals and of course icebergs. This is true Antarctica, the vision you see on the posters. There are many landing sites in this area. The way it works on these cruises is, in July of the previous year, the operations put in a bid for the dates/landing sites they want the following season. The sites are awarded through a lottery system. Even though there were over 60+ ships in the Antarctic when we were there, we only saw 2 in the distance passing. This is because every ship has a landing site awarded to them and this allows you to feel like you are the only ones in Antarctica. If you encounter bad weather at your designated landing site, they do try to find an open site but this isn’t always possible. The Weddell Sea is a true ice wilderness. It is only accessible late in the summer due to the treacherous ice formations. This is where Shackelton’s ship rests. The Weddell sea part of the voyages have very few landing options and as such most of the time is often spent on the ship.
Icebergs in summer
Penguin colonies
Duration
Cruises range from 9 days to 19 days. You can sail from Buenos Aires, Argentina and add an around-the-horn option or you can just sail to South Shetland Islands Antarctica out of Ushuaia. The cruises to South Georgia Island and The Weddell Sea are longer duration due to distance and more expensive. There is also an option to Fly-and-sail and avoid the dreaded Drake passage altogether. Some of these operate out of Punta Arenas, Chile and you fly to King George Island in the South Shetland Islands.
Ships
There are so many options for ships. You can choose a bare bones option with a bunk bed and a porthole or a full luxury experience. They have science-based expeditions where you assist as a citizen scientist and conduct science experiments like water samples, etc. Some ships have work out rooms and saunas, others have very limited options. The big things to think about here is size of the ship. The bigger ships are cheaper but there is a rule that only 100 people can be on land at any given time. So if you are on a ship with 500 passengers, only 100 people can be on shore at a time. The other big thing to consider with a big ship is their access to small bays and ports. Bigger ships cannot get into some of the small bays and coves that smaller ships can. Benefits of the big ships: stability crossing the Drake passage and other rough seas. If you are prone to seasickness this might be the better option for you. Benefits of smaller ships: more access to expeditions, you are closer to the water, more personalized. Negatives: more sensitive to the motion of the sea. It should be noted some ships include parkas and others do not. Some ships require you to rent boots on board and some include these fees in your cost. The same holds true for water proof pants. These are all essential items for any land or zodiac excursions.
Our ‘small’ ship buried in the fog
On a beautiful sunny warm day they opened the pool and hot tub
Outdoor bbq on a beautiful day
Sail Dates/costs
There are really only 3 ‘seasons’ to talk about for sail dates. Early summer is when you are going to see more icebergs and experience true Antarctic landscapes. Animals start showing up and penguins are caring for eggs. There are really good deals the end of October and November. Negatives are weather might impact landings and seas more. December and January are baby season. Penguin chicks are hatching and adults and teenagers are molting. Whales and seals are abundant. You have a chance at gorgeous and mild weather. The midnight sun puts on a show and dances off the glaciers. Negatives are peak travel season so this is the most expensive time. February and March wrap up the season. Whales are the main attraction now and awkward teenager penguins. There are really good end of the season deals here. Negatives are the weather could start turning again.
penguins resting on a floating iceberg as we passed by
Baby chinstrap penguin with parent
Expeditions
Each ship offers different expeditions/excursions. Some ships only have limited spots so you have to sign up early. This doesn’t bode well if you book last minute. Some ships have all excursions included, others you might pay for everything separate. Excursions can include zodiac rides, landings, kayaking, polar plunge, winter camping, winter snowshoeing, etc. Most ships include free lectures on board and some form of onboard entertainment.
zodiac excursion to a shipwreck.
Kayak excursion
Deception Island volcano hike
Ultimately it comes down to cost, duration and then which ship has the excursions you want and/or experience you are hoping to get from your trip. It should be stated that Antarctica is a very fickle beast. Excursions get cancelled due to weather. Ships break. The Drake Passage is known for 2 things Drake Lake (calm) and the Drake Shake (not good). Some ships include travel insurance protection in the cost others require you to purchase it. This is because unfortunately ships break and the trips get cancelled or a fellow passenger has a medical reason and the ship needs to return to harbor (all stories we heard that happened this season). Flexibility is key and good insurance is a must. But the bottom line is Antarctica is truly a remarkable place and if you go in with an open mind and embrace what the continent gives you, you won’t regret it and you will likely spend a week after your trip like this Weddell seal.
Sleeping Weddell Seal
